So, alas, it was another dreadful birthday last week. But it wasn't all bad -- I was whisked away to Los Angeles.
Arriving at the hotel in Arcadia on Route 66, this was to be the first of California's self-referential nature that would impress itself upon me. Even if you think yourself to be above the influence of Hollywood, every American is flooded with the geography of the Los Angeles metropolitan area. As the place names were heretofore but foggy pinpoints on a map in my imagination, I must begrudgingly admit that it was fun to see all the famous landmarks unfold before my eyes.
My first night was spent at a Greek restaurant in Old Pasadena. If you're ever in the area, check out the restaurant Santorini. I was unwittingly wearing my Dead Can Dance shirt with faux Greek on it when what I assumed to be the owner stopped me and tried to read the Greek gibberish. I tried with cordial insistence to quickly explain it was fake. How do you say 'oy!' in Greek?

The next day, my birthday, I was treated with a short excursion to Little India in Artesia. Not as impressive as the one I've been to in Vancouver, BC, but more variety of
desis and a number of
goras too. I went straightaway to a Bollywood store, where a hip couple of fellow Anglos had beat me in at the street's universal opening time of 11:00. The sign in the store said "FIXED PRICE", which I promptly was able to translate in my head to
एक दाम है. As I mulled over this tidbit of information in my head, the young woman proceeded to inquire the shopkeeper for a DVD (I wish I could remember the title, they looked my age and like they had similar predilections). The
dukaanwala immediately connected them with her hook-up by phone (much as I had had personal experience with at my local Sikh business owner back in Washington), before digging out a copy from somewhere on some disheveled shelf. At this discovery the clerk triumphantly gave the price at $14 dollars, to which the girl brusquely turned to walk away, asserting she didn't
really want it (even though it was the sole purpose of their visit). "$
11, $
11!," the Indian lady behind the counter sharply let out, to which the girl nonchalantly assented. Fixed price indeed. Truly, "Little India" was not just a cute marketing moniker. And how did a white kid ever learn to haggle like that?!
Unfortunately, in all of Little India, there was only one bookshop. In Indian fashion, the books seemed to have plopped on the shelves by themselves. But there was a lot of good stuff in such a small store. Religion, poetry, Hindi, and other Indian language books were represented. As well as, children's books of Indian heroes which I saw a desi family's child point to, listing the one's he's read. Is it strange that I, an American of Scottish, German and English ancestry, can swell with such pride to see a culture I respect and adore being passed to third generation Indians? In the end, my birthday money being limited, I had to settle on two well-selected books. With much painful deliberation I finally settled on a bilingual selection of Kabir's doha's published in India, and another bilingual selection of Ghalib's ghazals printed in Pakistan.
Finished off the Little India excursion with an authentic buffet recommended to us by the nice family who ran a shop selling Shalwar Kameez and Kurta's. Had been disappointed to have forgotten to check out the only Bollywood dance studio in the country (
really?!!) and going to the Indian cineplex, but was somewhat relieved upon later reading the lacklustre reviews for the movies playing. Instead, capped off the day in Little Tokyo, which was a huge disappointment. Besides a basic wares shop (hashi, lacquer bowls and such), a grocery store, karaoke/saké bar, kendo jodo and, of course, an anime and manga den, the miniature mall was a little dead and more commerce than culture.
The next day I did the nerd-tourist thing and visited La Brea Tar Pits, then proceeded to places like the Sunset Strip, Mulholland Drive, Bel Air, and Beverly Hills, including Rodeo Drive... I feel a Rage Against the Machine song coming on:
Yeah I'm rollin' down Rodeo wit a shotgun
These people ain't seen a brown skin man
Since their grandparents bought one
There's no other adjective for that kind of wealth than
obscene. And absolutely so. As part of the Christmas street décor, hung from the street lamps were, I kid you not, crystal chandeliers. Its profligacy made Scottsdale look like rural Alabama in comparison. Drive up the Hollywood Hills and loop through Bel Air if you ever get a chance (avoiding the tacky celebrity tours), then try to convince me again why your ideology against graduated taxes is so destructive to the economic opportunity of our country. Drive down Wilshire through the Koreatown area first for proper perspective. Though, for even
more perspective, drown down towards USC.
Of the other ethnic enclaves I drove through or past included: Fairfax District (Jewish), Little Ethiopia, Little Armenia, Thai Town and Little Salvador. But I finished the day in Tehrangeles, south of the UCLA campus in Beverly Hills and just south of Bel Air. This is the largest community of Iranians living outside of Iran -- and it was evident. Though most don't live in the area (despite the infamous "Persian Palace" controversies), there were nearly three full blocks of heavily concentrated Persian stores and restaurants. And unlike Little India, the Persians seemed to have as many bookstores as restaurants, immigration services and music stores.
In Tehrangeles, I dined first with my family at رستوران شهرزاد (Shaherzad Restaurant). Apart from another white couple, we were the only ones in the place. The restaurant was filled with the smooth cadence of Farsi, except for the Arabic spoken behind us, which cut through the warm tones of Persia like a bagpipe in a brass band. I couldn't help but notice all the drop-dead gorgeous Persian women. It's long been a politically incorrect musing of mine that, having seen women who look like they sprang forth from a miniature painting of a
sāqī, it's no wonder conservative fathers and mullahs in Iran want their women and daughters to cover up!

After dinner, I went to the place I'd wanted to visit most,
Ketab Bookstore (the English name's a bit redundant if you know rudimentary Arabic, Farsi, Turkish, Urdu or Hindi vocabulary). I felt a bit awkward, not because I was in the lion's den of "terrorists"; but, because I got the sense that they were more uncertain of me than I was of them -- as if maybe I had wandered in there by mistake and would soon figure out they were evil Iranians! Maybe I'm just imagining this sense though. In any case, the place was wonderful.
About 90% of the store was Farsi material with all sections headed in Farsi (much as, outside, most shop signs were), leaving only three shelves of English language material. But to say that this situation made my choices any easier would be flat false. Incredibly strong selection. Current Events, Politics, History, Culture, Religion, Poetry; it was great! I spent a good hour or more just leafing through beautiful copies of the Shahnameh, Khayyam, Sa'di, Taher, Farrokhzad, Hafez, Rumi, etc. Try finding those at the Barnes & Nobles down the street!
Ha! Oh, sure, you might find a copy of Coleman Barks' renditions of Rumi, but not the beautiful, scholarly, bilingual translations by Persians and Orientalists that you could find at Ketab Bookstore.
Immersed as I was, I rarely looked up, but when I did I would take in the store, filled with the old Persian flags, elegant wares, music, art, posters, and other items Iranian. I was too shy to ask if any of the small flags were for sale, but took interest in a bin of Iranian soccer style scarves and other patriotic fare, all crested by a bundle of largish American flags! I can never tell if this habit is just from sincere patriotism, or sincere patriotism
and the fear of post 9/11 politics. I always suspect the latter, though I'm not saying Iranian-Americans wouldn't still display the American flag if the atmosphere of American ignorance were any different.
In the end I couldn't resist a book about Zarathushtra printed in Iran, given my zealous thirst for Zoroastrianism trumped the excruciating task of choosing one poet over another. At the cash register, what I presumed to be the owner, a graying, kindly man rang me up and said a hesitant "thank you" to which I, reflexively, barely got out the second word of kheyli mamnun (خيلى ممنون, 'many thanks'), anxiously summoning the handful of Farsi phrases commited to memory.
Far from just the liberal Hollywood élites, it is LA, not Sarah Palin's anachronistic, nativist vision, which I see as reflecting the true complexion of America. Self-segregated as they may be, the big cities and regional pockets across this country represent the true diversity that America was built on. Though people of Appalachia often self-identify as
"Americans" for the census, there is no American ethnicity. Just an ideal. The ideals which provided the opportunity for a son of a Kenyan immigrant to become president.

LA may be no Mecca; but after having a Hindu bringing out kurtas for me to try on whilst performing puja at his shrine, seeing magnificent Buddhist and Jewish temples, eating a halaal meal, and drooling over a silver
faravahar pendant, it
was a cultural hajj of sorts.
E pluribus unum!